Cordillera Blanca Climbing


The mountaineering capital of Peru, the Cordillera Blanca Mountain Range offers unlimited opportunities for high-alpine adventures appropriate for novice climbers to world-class high alpine experts. We offer a variety of climbing expeditions (see list below) as well as mountaineering training courses for climbers looking to sharpen their skills before tackling those technical 6,000-meter peaks. All expeditions organized by Hotel Morales are coordinated and led by professional Peruvian UIAGM-certified mountain guides. With our clients’ safety as our first priority, we require all mountaineering outings to have a high guide-to-client ratio to ensure a safe and smooth adventure.
Acclimatization: Proper acclimatization is extremely important for anyone attempting a climb over 5,000 meters. Please ask us about our pre-climb programs that include day hikes to glacial lakes or warm-up climbs for those looking to attempt a 6,000-meter peak.

Support: All climbing expeditions organized by Hotel Morales are led by a qualified and licensed UIAGM International Mountain Guide. Guide-to-client ratios vary depending on the difficulty of the climb, but the general ratio is 2.5 clients per UIAGM-certified mountain guide. All expeditions are supported by at least one assistant mountain guide (member of the Peruvian Mountain Guides Association). For most climbs, donkey teams and/or porters carry equipment (tents, gear, food, etc.) to basecamp, while clients carry their clothes and any personal items. Clients then carry their personal climbing gear to high camps on any climbs that require spending the night on the glacier.
Safety: We take safety and risk management in the mountains VERY SERIOUSLY. All climbing expeditions are organized with the appropriate equipment and trained personnel to ensure that clients who fall ill, grow tired or have an accident may be evacuated quickly and safely.

Grading: The grading of climbs is an indication of the level of difficulty. Even climbs suitable for beginners are graded medium to hard in order to reflect that the altitude makes climbing on any peak physically demanding. Although many guidebooks describe smaller mountains as, “trekker’s peaks,” the approaches for all climbs often involve a steep and challenging hike up through loose moraine rock in order to reach the glacier. Most climbs also involve at least a short section of steep ice climbing. We would not classify ANY climb in the Cordillera Blanca as a, “trekker’s peak,” as the altitude and terrain make all climbs physically demanding. We recommend that all clients be well-acclimatized and in appropriate physical condition before attempting a mountaineering expedition.

Equipment: Expedition guides provide group climbing rope, snow stakes and ice screws. Clients will need to rent personal climbing gear (helmet, harness, crampons, boots, ice axe, etc.) before joining an expedition. Please let us know if you need to rent gear and we will point you in the right direction.
*NOTE*: The normal routes and conditions on all peaks is in a constant process of change on a month-to-month basis. The descriptions of the routes provided on our website should be considered as general descriptions of the most up-to-date routes. Conditions and routes have the potential to change considerably upon arrival to the glacier.

Recommended peaks for beginner climbers:
– Mountaineering Skills Course
– Urus and Ishinca
– Pisco
– Vallunarahu
– Mateo

Recommended peaks for intermediate climbers or beginners who have received some instruction:
– Yanapaccha
– Chopicalqui
– Tocllarahu (*Ask about the 3-peak Ishinca Valley Expedition)

Technical peaks – Recommended for experienced mountaineers only.
– Alpamayo
– Quitarahu
– Artesonrahu
– El Pirámide
– Huandoy
– Huascaran

For more detailed information, please click on the climbing programs below to see the full expedition itinerary.
Medium-grade peaks are highly-recommended acclimatization climbs for those planning on attempting a 6,0000-meter summit or technical climb.
Technical peaks may also be appropriate for beginner climbers who have received mountaineering instruction and have good basic climbing techniques.



Packages


Climbing Vallunaraju 5686m or Climbing Course 3 days

Vallunaraju is one of the few peaks in the Cordillera Blanca that can be climbed from Huaraz in two days. The climb is an enjoyable, moderate mountaineering adventure with great views from all aspects and sun during the climbing

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Climbing Ishinca 5530 and Urus 5450m

In the Ishinca Valley we can climb both peaks which are suitable for novice climbers. Previous experience on snow and ice is not necessary, but you do need to be strong to undertake these climbs.

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Climbing Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju 7 Days

From our base in the beautiful Ishinca Valley we can climb three peaks which are suitable for novice and experienced climbers. We will provide some basic instruction in the base camp and support during the climb.

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Climbing Pisco 5752m

An achievable climb for both inexperienced climbers ready for a challenge and for experienced climbers alike. Pisco is also a superb preparation climb for those tackling the big peaks. From the summit feel like you are ‘on top of the world’

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Climbing Yanapaccha 5460m

It is a moderately difficult climb with some steep sections & crevasse negotiation and is not suitable for first time climbers, but an ideal peak for experienced climbers or novice climbers who have received instruction.

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Climbing Alpamayo 5947m

Alpamayo is an amazing pyramid of ice and snow flutings, once voted to be the most beautiful mountain in the world. The climb to the summit is steep & technical, and is suitable for experienced climbers only

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Climbing Huascaran 6768m

Huascaran is the highest mountain of Peru, and the highest of any mountains situated in the tropics. It is the principal objective of many climbers that visit the Cordillera Blanca. A good acclimatisation program is essential

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