Timing: 2 days climb or 3 / 4 days with instruction day(s)
Grade: AD- / Moderate snow slopes – some steep climbing
Altitude: 5460m (17913 ft)
Looking for a challenging short climb or an acclimatisation peak away from the more well known and popular Pisco?
Yanapaccha is situated in the Llanganuco Valley adjacent to Pisco, but is much less well known and less frequented by climbers.
It is a moderately difficult climb with some steep sections & crevasse negotiation and is not suitable for first time climbers, but an ideal peak for experienced climbers or novice climbers who have received instruction and are looking to extend their climbing level.
It is necessary to carry all equipment up to Morena Camp. Porters carry tents, food, climbing rope up to Camp and back, but you need to carry your own personal gear. For novice climbers wanting to attempt a challenging peak with some technical climbing, we can include one or two days climbing instruction on the glacier before the summit climb.
Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Cebollapampa, passing by the famous twin lakes of Llanganuco and then continue up to a hairpin bend in the road at 4580m. From here we hike to Morena Camp for about 3 to 3 ½ hours to the campsite. (5000m)
Day 2: The initial ascent onto the glacier is usually a short steep ice climb & then there is more gentle terrain on the glacier . There are crevasse fields to negotiate and the last 200m to reach the summit is steep 65 deg. About 3 to 4 rappels are required during the descent. Return back to Morena Camp & then back out to the road where our private vehicle will be waiting for us (10 to 11 hours for the day) and we return back to Huaraz.
Optional Day 3 & 4: Climbing Instruction: Stay an extra night(s) in Morena Camp – Include a day or two of ice climbing and / or rescue training on Yanapaccha Glacier before climbing to the summit on the final day.
Contact us for more information and prices.
If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private climb or would be happy to join with other people.