Timing: 6 or 7 days
Grade: AD to D / some technical climbing / very physically demanding
Huascaran is the highest mountain of Peru, and the highest of any mountains situated in the tropics. It is the principal objective of many climbers that visit the Cordillera Blanca.
In the past Huascaran has not been an especially technical mountain to climb, but in recent years changes to the glacier have made the going more difficult. This, combined with the high altitude, makes Huascaran a very physically demanding mountain to climb.
A good acclimatisation program is essential, and we always recommend an acclimatisation trek followed by a preparation peak such as Pisco.
Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Musho. Hike to Base Camp 4350m 4 hours. Donkeys carry all equipment , you carry just a light day pack.
Day 2: Climb at first on moraine rock and rock slabs, at times steeply, and then on snow & ice to High Camp 1 at 5260m. Porters carry tents, food and ropes but you need to carry your personal gear, climbing gear, clothes and sleeping bag. 5 hours.
Day 3: Climb to High Camp 2 at 6000m. We leave early and need to move quickly in some places because of risk of falling ice. There is some steep climbing with crevasses and seracs fields to negotiate around. There is approximately 45 minutes of steep technical climbing in most years and you may also have to climb into and back out of a crevasse. 5 to 6 hours
Day 4: Climb to the summit & return to High Camp 2. Again, there may be several crevasses to negotiate around and care is required. An 11 to 12 hour day
Day 5: Return to Base Camp. 6 to 7 hours
Day 6: Walk to Musho 3 hours, then return to Huaraz in our private van
Optional Day 7: Extra day for rest or bad weather (must be requested at the time of booking)
Contact us for more information and prices.
If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private climb or would be happy to join with other people.