Timing: 7 days
Grade: Steep & technical climbing
Alpamayo is an amazing pyramid of ice and snow flutings, once voted to be the most beautiful mountain in the world.
The climb to the summit is steep & technical, and is suitable for experienced climbers only. We advise warm-up climbs on one or two peaks beforehand.
There is an option to also climb Quitaraju, adjacent to Alpamayo and climbed from the same high camp.
This itinerary is for 7 days & includes a day for rest or bad weather. You can be flexible where and how you spend this day.
Day 1: Drive 3 hours from Huaraz to Cashapampa. Then hike to Llamacorral following the famous Santa Cruz trek route. Altitude at Llamacorral 3750m. 4 to 5 hours.
Day 2: Hike to Base Camp at the top of the Quebrada Arhuaycocha 4250m. 4 to 5 hours. Donkeys carry all equipment as far as base camp & return to Cashapampa. You carry just a light day pack on the trek in.
Day 3: Flexible. Rest Day while the porters carry gear to High Camp.
Or use this day as a bad weather day.
Or there is an option to continue up to an Intermediate camp Morena Camp today instead of going direct from Base Camp to High Camp in a single day.
Day 4: First climbing on in places steep & slippery moraine rock. Once on the ice, the climbing is varied between easier slopes and steep ice slopes up to 70 deg. In some years there has been about 200m of ice cliff to climb and the guide may fix a rope here. About 6 to 7 hours testing climbing to reach High Camp, situated on a saddle between Alpamayo & Quitaraju at 5450m.
Day 5: A steep & technical climb on ice to the summit with several hours of continual front pointing. Fixed rope may be used depending on clients skills and the number of other climbers on the route. Several rappels are needed to descend. Return to sleep at High Camp. 8 to 9 hours.
Day 6: Return to Base Camp. 5 to 6 hours.
Day 7: Return to Cashapampa. 7 to 8 hours and return to Huaraz in our private van.
Optional Day 8: Stay an extra night at High Camp to climb Quitaraju.
Contact us for more information and prices.
If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private climb or would be happy to join with other people.